Climbing at the Tokyo Olympics: Start times, how look and how it works

Climbing at the Tokyo Olympics: Start times, how look and how it works

Adam Ondra is probably the best climber in the world right now.

Sebastian Widmann / Getty Images

Sport climbing is about to do its long-awaited (from me) debut to the Tokyo Olympics. We are extremely excited.

Regular old rock climbing has been around for … well, ever since first time someone has tried to climb something rocky. But modern recreational climbing started in on 19 century, with only emergent sport climbing in the 70s and 80s.

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Traditional climbing takes place outside without a predetermined path.

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At the Olympics, climbing will take place on engineered or indoor routes. They practice in Chase of physical perfection e strategy with respect to the vertical height.

Rock climbing has evolved as a catch-Everyone term for many different sports, including everything from free solo to bouldering. With that in mind, that’s all that need to know on sport climbing at the 2020 Olympics.

When to watch climbing at the Tokyo Olympics

The Olympic master schedule has already been released, with sport climbing qualifying events on 3 and 4 August.

Here is the breakdown for the men…

  • Qualifications for men’S speed climbing place August 3 at 4:00 am EDT (1:00 am PDT).
  • Qualifications for men’s boulder takes place August 3 at 5:00 am EDT (2:00 am PDT).
  • Qualifications for men’S lead climbing takes place August 3 at 8:00 am EDT (5:00 am PDT).

And for the women…

  • Qualifications for women’S speed climbing place August 4 at 4:00 am EDT (1:00 am PDT).
  • Qualifications for women’s boulder takes place August 4 at 5:00 am EDT (2:00 am PDT).
  • Qualifications for women’S lead climbing takes place August 4 at 8:00 am EDT (5:00 am PDT).

The finals will be on 5 and 6 August. In the United States, NBC will do it broadcast events, with the BBC securing the rights in England and Channel Seven, 7Mate and 7Two in Australia. All events it will take place at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo.

How climbing in the Olympics works

Sport climbing will be broken up in three distinct disciplines: speed climbing, lead climbing and bouldering. Not all countries will be represented; Alone 20 athletes per gender (40 climbers total) will be allowed compete at the Games, and only 2 athletes per gender per country will do so compete in any data event.

Sincerely, the International Olympic Committee currently recognizes only two genders: female and male. There are currently clauses for athletes who identify as transgender, both female and male, a compete. But there are no guidelines or rulings for athletes who do not identify yourself as female or male, including those who they are non-binary, agender and genderqueer.

The combined nature of climbing in the Olympics has been somewhat controversial. Fast climbing requires a set completely different skill than bouldering e lead climbing. In next Olympic Games speed climbing is breaking down out as separate event, leaving boulder e lead climbing in combined event.

Fast climbing

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Two climbers, one wall.

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The climb in speed is relatively simple: there are two climbers with safety ropes And one 15 meters wall set at an angle of 95 degrees. The climbers race against each other to arrive in top, with the fastest one winning. The speed the path is exactly the same times: the same value in the same position with the exact same angle. The addition of speed climbing has been somewhat controversial in the climb community, because it requires a completely different set of skills compared to other climbing disciplines.

Boulder

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Athletes use physical and mental precision for climb upward of a via bouldering.

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The boulder takes place on a shorter wall, where climbers take turns trying to climb as many routes as possible on a four meters high wall in 4 minutes. Each path (also called boulder problem) is laid out with taken by hands and feet in a specific color and vary in difficulty based on the dimension of the jacks and the way are spaced apart out. A climber completes a problem grabbing the grip in tall with both hands.

Bouldering has traditionally been around power and finger strength, but recently competition the route planners were creating problems which require gentle coordination and explosive gymnastic movements. This one it will be fun to watch.

Lead climbing

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In lead climbing, participants protect yourself with a rope like them climb higher.

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Lead climbing is probably the most recognizable of the three events. The climber has six minutes for climb how in tall on a wall which is higher than 15 meters. They use safety ropes that stick to referrals on they way up, allowing the chord to run freely while remaining anchored to the wall. If two athletes reach the same point on the wall, the person who I arrived there first and the winner.

Both in bouldering and in lead climbing, climbers are not allowed to practice climbing on the paths before them compete or watch each other climb the wall, and they only have a couple of them of minutes to study the routes and decide their own strategy before the timer begins.

Medal system

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The Olympic and Paralympic medals are made from recycled electronics. The Olympics won’t change the year on the medals, from way.

Tokyo Olympics

If you thought that qualifying system it was a bit complicated, Take a deep breath. There is only one set of medals awarded by gender, therefore all three events will go to determine which country gets the gold, silver and bronze.

The speed the discipline of climbing will be done in a parenthesis format, with athletes in competition head to head, while the bouldering is in a ranking format. Lead climbing will have a point system in that everyone holds on the wall counts as one point and the athlete who salt on highest will get the highest score.

Once all athletes are sorted by placement by event, their place numbers will be multiplied and the climbers with the shortest scores want win medals. Because of the format of the score, every climber will do compete in Everything is fine event. For example, if an athlete gets second place in speed climbing, third in boulder e first in lead climbing their suit score would be six (2 times 3 times 1 equals 6).

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